American ski resorts, Vail and Beaver Creek
Vail and Beaver Creek
Vail set the standard for ski resort development in the U.S., especially when you consider that the town was sprung from the resort, not the other way around. When its lifts started running in 1962, there was nothing—just an empty valley surrounded by mountains. The creation of a resort village from the ground up is that original act so many other resorts tried to follow (think: the Austrian vibe, the clock tower, the pedestrian-only streets and quaint restaurants and shops). And indeed they did—follow, that is. Vail continues to lead the pack not only in terms of expanding its terrain and adding/upgrading its lift system, but also attracting a world-class clientele with its luxury amenities. It’s the kind of place you can expect to find gourmet food at the top of the mountain, where everyone is good looking and/or rich, and the concept of a mountain town has been transformed from rustic to luxurious.
Today the Vail Valley spans almost 50 miles, from the bottom of Vail Pass in the east to Gypsum and beyond. Sprawling communities like Eagle/Vail, Avon, and Edwards in between are a testimony to the burgeoning development in the Vail Valley and real estate is some of the highest per square foot in the region. Beaver Creek is Vail’s crown jewel in terms of luxury real estate and luxury in general—there are escalators that carry its pampered crowds from the village to the lifts at the base of the mountain and beyond.
THE FACTS: VAIL
Summit: 11,570 ft.
Vertical Drop: 3,450 ft.
Terrain: 5,289 acres
Trails: 193
Lifts: (34 total) 1 gondola, 14 high-speed quads, 1 fixed-grip quad, 3 triples,
2 doubles, 10 surface lifts
Best Groomed Run: Vail actually goes so far as to boast 1,500 acres of groomed terrain offered daily, so you’re likely to see more corduroy here than you have since the late ‘70s. Our personal favorites are almost any intermediate run off the Northwoods Express Chair, where a steeper pitch at the top empties onto a gentle run out for no-holds barred cruising.
Best Bump Run: It’s high time you checked out the Highline, a top-to-bottom double-black-diamond run right below the Highline Lift. With a consistent, unrelenting fall line and plenty of vertical, go right from burning quads to high-speed quad as many times as your legs are able. At Beaver Creek, head up the Grouse Mountain chair where the steep fall line guarantees good mogul lines soon after it snows on runs like Ravens Ridge and Screech Owl.
The Inside Line: There’s nowhere better to start your powder day than at the Cascade Lift, located on the westernmost side of the mountain, far from crowded base areas like Vail Village and Lionshead. Not only will there be fewer people, there will be fewer tracks—or if you’re lucky, no tracks but your own. Beginners love the unique trail layout at Beaver Creek where some of the finest green runs are located at the summit, which is probably why the chair to the top is called Cinch.
For Kids: As if one of the best children’s ski schools in the country weren’t enough, check out Adventure Ridge, Vail’s own on-mountain activity center. It’s more like an on-snow amusement park with ski bikes, kids snowmobile track, snow tubing, and more (www.vail.snow.com/winter/ae.mtnactivities.asp).
On-Mountain Eats: Two Elk Restaurant, the gateway to China Bowl and Blue Sky Basin, sets the standard for this new breed of on-mountain lodge. The massive log frame structure feels more luxurious than rustic with a menu to satisfy even the most discriminating palate, and the views at 11,200 feet are spectacular. Ditto that for Spruce Saddle at Beaver Creek, a similar mid-mountain facility in style, feel, and food.
Après-Ski: The après-ski scene in Vail is as big and spread out as the mountain itself. With three major base areas (Golden Peak, Vail Village, and Lionshead), it boils down to where you park your car. In Lionshead, you can’t miss the scene on the big, sunny deck at Garfinkle’s or Bart & Yeti’s (www.bartandyetis.com, 970-476-2754), a tried and true local’s hangout. In the village, stop by the Red Lion ( www.theredlion.com, 970-476-7676), aneasy first stop at the base of the Vista Bahn, and then drop into Vendetta’s (www.vendetta.com, 970- 476-5070) because we can guarantee that anyone who has been to Vail will ask you if you went there.
In-Town Dining: The sight of entrée choices under $20 is a sight for sore eyes in Vail, especially when the food is as good as it is at Blu’s. With an extensive menu that includes tasty pasta dishes, pan-seared trout or a roasted free-range chicken, it’s a great choice for large groups and families. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week (www.blusrestaurant.com, 970-476-3113). For a taste of Mexican in the mountains follow the locals over to Agave in Avon for the giant margaritas and the big colorful pates at Vail Valley’s favorite gourmet Mexican (970-748-8666).
Coolest Local Hangout: Beeline past Starbucks and drink locally at the Covered Bridge Coffee & Deli (970-479-2883). Located close to the river by the covered bridge (where else would it be?), this little tucked-away, standing room only bagel and coffee stop is the perfect morning pit stop on the way to the lifts.
Nightlife: Once the sun goes down, it’s all about roaming the cobblestone pedestrian streets of Vail Village, where bar hopping is made easy and no one has to be the designated driver. Start things off at The Tap Room on Bridge Street (www.taproomvail.com, 970-477-1393) for a cold pint of Colorado microbrew beer before heading to 8150 Club for live music (check the Vail Daily for music happenings) or to Samana (www.samanalounge.com/, 970-476-3433) for that late-night, low-light, dance club vibe.
Best Off-Slope Activity: Give those tired legs a rest with a day of indulgence at the Allegria Spa at the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek (www.allegriaspa.com, 970-748-7500). This brand new, state-of-the-art facility offers a menu of treatments that are truly delicious.
For That Special Night: It’s almost too good to be true. Take an open-air sleigh ride from Beaver Creek Village to a hand-hewn log cabin in a snowy meadow framed by Grouse Mountain where a warm crackling fire, delicious five-course dinner, and live musical entertainment will give her something to write home about (www.beavercreek.snow.com/info/winter/rst.din.beanos.asp, 970-949.9090).
